Kenya’s fashion landscape is undergoing a paradigm shift—one that reconciles the vibrant trade in second-hand clothing, known locally as Mitumba, with a burgeoning domestic apparel manufacturing industry. A landmark report released on 15 May 2025 by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) titled “A Future Look at the Apparel and Footwear Industry in Kenya (2022–2037)” charts a 15-year roadmap for an inclusive, sustainable and job-rich sector. Rather than pitting imported pre-worn garments against locally produced fashion, the study argues that both can and should coexist to power Kenya’s economic growth, social development and environmental goals (mitumbaassociation.org).

Understanding Mitumba: Scale, Reach and Affordability

Mitumba is far more than a niche thrift-shop phenomenon. In 2019 alone, Kenyan households spent Ksh 197.5 billion on clothing and footwear—new and used combined—underscoring apparel’s central role in consumer budgets and lifestyle choices (Nipashe Biz Kenya News). Of that total:

• The average household allocated Ksh 409 per quarter to used clothing, versus Ksh 783 for new apparel, highlighting Mitumba’s affordability appeal.
• 91.5% of second-hand purchasers spent less than Ksh 1,000 per quarter, making Mitumba a vital resource for low- and middle-income families (Nipashe Biz Kenya News).

Kenya has recently become Africa’s leading importer of Mitumba: in 2023, it brought in 177,000 tonnes of used garments—valued at Ksh 38.5 billion—surpassing even Nigeria despite the latter’s far larger population (Business Insider Africa).

Economic Impact: Jobs, Taxes and Livelihoods

The MCAK report spotlights Mitumba’s immense socio-economic footprint:

• Livelihoods: Over 2 million Kenyans are directly employed in trading, sorting, cleaning and retailing Mitumba—most of them women and youth.
• Tax Revenue: The sector contributes roughly Ksh 12 billion annually to the exchequer via duties, VAT and business permits.
• Ancillary Services: Transporters, warehousing operators, tailors and repair artisans derive incomes from the value chain that stretches from Mombasa port to Gikomba Market (mitumbaassociation.org).

These figures align with an Institute of Economic Affairs study, which estimated that the second-hand clothing trade accounted for 10% of Kenya’s extended labour force and lifted thousands out of poverty by offering affordable fashion and stable incomes (SMARTASN).

Sustainability and Circularity: Environmental Benefits

Second-hand clothing extends the life of garments that might otherwise enter landfills. The MCAK report estimates that Mitumba imports in 2022 helped avert over 200,000 tonnes of textile waste—supporting global circular-economy goals and Kenya’s own environmental commitments under the National Climate Change Action Plan (financialfortunemedia.com).

Moreover, by reducing demand for virgin textile production, Mitumba indirectly spares:

• Water: Cotton cultivation is extremely water-intensive; each kilogram requires up to 2,700 litres of water.
• Energy: Manufacturing synthetic fibres and dyeing fabrics account for significant CO₂ emissions.
• Chemicals: Effluent from dye houses ranks among the most pollutant industrial discharges.

Embracing pre-worn clothes thus delivers tangible carbon- and resource-savings—a benefit that resonates with eco-conscious consumers and policymakers alike (Vogue Business).

Local Manufacturing: Growth, Challenges and Opportunities

While Mitumba remains a critical source of affordable apparel, Kenya’s home-grown garment industry has also shown promise under policy frameworks such as Vision 2030, the Big 4 Agenda and the upcoming Cotton, Textile and Apparel (CTA) Policy (Industrialization). Key facts include:

• GDP Contribution: Manufacturing accounts for 20% of Kenya’s GDP, with the CTA subsector contributing roughly 5% and employing some 300,000 direct workers (and another 3.7 million indirectly) (Kippra).
• Export Markets: Under AGOA (the African Growth and Opportunity Act), Kenyan apparel exporters enjoy duty-free access to the U.S., generating over US $150 million in annual shipments.
• Value-addition: Local factories are increasingly moving beyond cut-make-pack operations to in-house design, finishing and niche branding—highlighting a maturing value chain.

Challenges remain—including high energy costs, competition for cotton lint, and skill-gaps—but targeted incentives (such as the 30% manufactured goods tax rebate announced in the 2024–25 Budget) are helping level the playing field (Kenya Investment Authority (KenInvest)).

A Coexistence Model: Synergies, Not Substitution

Rather than viewing Mitumba imports as undermining local mills, the MCAK report advocates a dual-track strategy:

1. Demand Segmentation
   
   • Mitumba caters to price-sensitive low and middle markets, especially in rural and peri-urban areas.
   • Locally made apparel targets formal retail outlets, corporate uniforms, high-end fashion and export niches.
2. Complementary Development
   • Mitumba’s affordable garments free up household budgets, supporting consumer spending in other areas.
   • Domestic manufacturers gain from stable cotton-fibre outgrower schemes and South–South trade links.
3. Shared Infrastructure
   • Investment in cold-storage-like warehousing can serve sorting centres (for Mitumba) and finished-goods staging areas (for local exporters).

This inclusive blueprint aligns with both Kenya Vision 2030 which aims for an industrial sector contributing 15% of GDP and the African Union’s Agenda 2063, which envisions a “Transformative Apparel and Textiles Sector” across the continent (Kenya Vision 2030, mitumbaassociation.org).

Policy Recommendations: Smart Regulation and Investment

To realize this synthesis, MCAK urges:

• Harmonized Tariffs: Maintain moderate import duties on used clothing (currently Ksh 8 per kg) to prevent smuggling while safeguarding affordability.
• Textile Park Zones: Develop dedicated industrial parks with subsidized utilities for CTA firms to reduce overheads.
• Quality Standards: Enforce grading protocols for Mitumba imports to minimize poor-quality bales and protect consumer health.
• Access to Finance: Leverage the Kenya Industrial Transformation Programme to extend low-interest loans to SMEs in both Mitumba sorting and garment manufacturing.
• Skills Development: Expand technical training through the Textile Training Institute of Kenya and garment-related modules in TVET colleges.

Such “smart regulation” balances the twin imperatives of economic inclusion and industrial competitiveness, ensuring that neither Mitumba nor local apparel producers are unduly disadvantaged (texfash.com).

Future Outlook: Scaling Up to 2037

The MCAK roadmap projects that Mitumba imports will climb to 587,526 tonnes by 2037—driven by population growth, rising incomes and urbanization—while domestic apparel output could more than double if productivity and value-addition gains are realized. Together, the two segments could:

• Create 5 million jobs across retail, manufacturing and logistics.
• Generate Ksh 400 billion in annual apparel and footwear revenues.
• Reduce Kenya’s apparel import bill (currently US $800 million) by up to 40%.
• Embed circular-economy practices, such as textile-to-textile recycling hubs co-located with sorting warehouses.

These potential gains underscore the importance of a balanced, forward-looking strategy—one that leverages both Mitumba’s proven resilience and the untapped potential of Kenya’s CTA sector (mitumbaassociation.org, financialfortunemedia.com).

Voices from the Ground

“When my income dipped during the last drought, Mitumba saved my family from buying nothing but essentials,” says Mercy Achieng, a Gikomba Market vendor. “But after I learned stitching and design at a skills centre, I started making dresses I sell at higher margins—so now I buy both imported and local fabrics.”

Joseph Mwangi, director of a Nairobi cut-make-pack factory, adds: “We can’t ignore Mitumba’s supply-chain networks—they’re some of the most efficient in East Africa. By partnering with sorting agents, we can get quality used fabrics for upcycling lines, creating unique local designs.”

These testimonials capture the hybrid spirit of Kenya’s apparel future—innovative, eclectic and deeply rooted in community resilience.

Conclusion

The MCAK report delivers a powerful message: Kenya does not face a binary choice between Mitumba or local manufacturing. Instead, through smart policy, targeted investment and collaborative business models, both segments can flourish—fueling inclusive job creation, strengthening export competitiveness, and advancing sustainability goals.

As Kenya strides toward Vision 2030 and the pan-African Agenda 2063, its fashion industry stands poised to demonstrate how heritage and innovation, thrift and high fashion, can weave together a truly transformative economic fabric.

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photo source: Google

By: Montel Kamau

Serrari Financial Analyst

16th May, 2025